Guide to Giglio Island

Arriving to Isola del Giglio always feels like coming home. The magical, deep blue waters glitter along the coast as you make your way off the mainland and to the center of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The island is wild. A rainbow of buildings line the shore at the port, and soon the island comes into focus. At 20 square kilometers, Giglio is the second largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago. Natural beauty overgrows the meandering road that takes you across the island. Giglio feels small and intimate. You don't need a car as one road basically takes you up and over the entire island. Yet on the other hand, every time I'm here I find myself always discovering something new. The island perfect for relaxing on the sand, following the sun, hiking to breathtaking views, and enjoying local food and wine.

 

PLACES TO GO:

Porto - Stroll up and down port, and view the rainbow of buildings that line the water. Here is fun to pop into the various shops for souvenirs, clothes, local wines and spices. Take many breaks on your walk, switching between coffees and spritzes. 

Cannelle Beach - Take the winding road to this sun soaked stretch of sand carved out along Giglio’s coast.  If you have forgotten your floatie don’t worry, you’ll pass the floatie graveyard as you make your way to your lounge chair. Remnants of sun bathers who had the same idea. The attendant who sells you your lounger for the day will also blow your floatie up for you. In between mid morning naps, soak in Cannelle’s glittering tide until it’s time for lunch. The perfect pairing to your sunkissed skin and salty lips is their spaghetti vongole, eagerly washed down with a glass of vino bianco.

Spiaggia dell'Arenelle - Come to this beach and lay out on the red and blue loungers while you wait for the best lunch on the island. Enjoy your mid-morning with a creme caffè or caffè shakerato, and go for a swim or take a nap in the sun. The kitchen opens for lunch at 12:45. Get in line and get ready to order the Spaghetto allo Spruzzo di Balena - a simple pasta dish with not so simple flavor. Spaghetti with tomatoes, anchovies, parsley, and breadcrumbs, combined to perfection. Is there anything more heavenly than eating a beautiful pasta, with your toes in the sand, and a view of the blue waters at Spiaggia dell'Arenella?!

Punta di Capel Rosso - Continue down the only road that goes past the castle and go further than you think possible. Through cliff-sides, canopied pine trees, and long stretches of vineyards, sweet air wafts coastal sea breeze and wild sage past you. Soon you reach the hiking trail where you will continue the adventure on foot. Follow “Al Mare” signs until Faro Capel Rosso, the tall red and white striped lighthouse, comes into view. Continue past until you reach the end of the island. Steps carved into the stone lead you to gin colored waters. I’m talking Bombay Saphire blue waters.  Refresh yourself with a life-changing swim before making the journey back.

Faraglione Campese - Park as far down Campese as you can and make your way to the trail head just past La Miniera restaurant. This hike is a mix of shaded and sunny areas, taking you up and down the cliff side that lead you to the big rocks that jut out of the sea, at Punta Faraglione. Before you leave, don't miss taking the other trail at the for in the road, Cala dei Pozzarelli, and take a dip in the ocean at this intimate little cove.  

Caletta del Saraceno - A cute and intimate little cove just steps from the port. 

 

BREAKFAST:

Terrazza at La Guardia - one of the best hotel breakfasts I've ever had. Beautiful, well curated, and delicious. Enjoy sunrise and you sip a cappuccino and watch the boats come into the porto.

Caffe Ferraro, Bar Pierina, and Pasticceria Fausto in Porto are also great options for a second caffè and cornetto.

LUNCH:

Bar Arenella - (Da Fiore Di Bartoletti Antonello E Lavoratori Verusca Snc_) - This is the restaurant at the far end of Spiaggia dell'Arenella. Come early while enjoying the morning sun and enjoy a cappuccino and pastry here. Then for the real main event, start getting in line early as the kitchen opens for lunch at 12:45. Order their world famous, Spaghetto allo Spruzzo di Balena! It is absolutely divine. A simple pasta in ingredients; tomatoes, anchovies, capers, parsley, and anchovies. But nothing about the flavor is simple! It's beautiful, complex, delizioso, and something I dream about all year until I'm back. Wash it down with a caraffa of vino bianco, and upon paying your bill take a shot of Giglio's gin. Salute! 

Ristorante Bar Cannelle on the Beach - This is the restaurant at Cannelle beach. If you arrive early, enjoy a delizioso cappuccino. When lunch time comes around, the restaurant works as a sort of cafeteria, where you get a tray and stand in line. Order from the pre-made salads and other various dishes, or order a specially made pizza or pasta. 

 

 

DINNER:

Terrazza - This is the restaurant at La Guardia hotel - very chic and delizioso! Creative dishes, fresh ingredients, and a stunning view of the harbor make for a fabulous meal. I get the most dressed up for these dinners as the walk back to the room is quick. 

Ristorante da Maria - My favorite restaurant inside the walls of Giglio Castello, in a historic 17th century building. 

Sopravvento (12:30-3PM, 7:30PM-11PM) - This restaurant is a true gem on the island. The most elevated and exquisite dishes I have had, maybe ever! Set in Porto, with views of the boats, enjoy some refreshing local wine, and get ready for simply the best dinner you'll have. Buonissimo! Creative dishes, fresh fish, artistic flares, Sopravvento has it all. Don't miss dessert, as they also had the best tiramisu I've ever had. 

L'acciuga: There always seems to be a sports game playing in this cute little restaurant in the port.

Ristorante La Vecchia Pergola

 

APERITIVO:

Tukul - Welcome to the best aperitivo ever. And I mean EVER! In the heart of Giglio Campese, the sun sets, and Tukul comes alive. Enjoy each cocktail with an elaborate charcuterie board included. It's as beautiful as the sunset you get to enjoy it with.

Bar Balocchi di Bibi Graetz - Enjoy a glass of Bibi Graetz wine on the steps of Giglio Castello.

Bar Ristorante Baia del Sole - We drank spritzes here on a sunny afternoon and it might be the best view for drinks on the island! It's located in Giglio's campground, and the restaurant sits on top of a cliff. Sun bathers lay out on the long slabs of rocks below and enjoy a quick dip into the water whenever you need to cool off. It's easy to reach and you can access the campground on the way to Campese.  

 

GELATO:

Gelateria Artigianale Da Nilo - Might be the best gelato I've ever had. The most fresh and inventive flavors, a must to end any night on the island.

Gelateria La Rosa dei Venti - Best gelato in Campese! My favorite was the cappuccino flavor with hazelnut.

 

STAY:

La Guardia Hotel  -  "Your Mediterranean Escape" set in Porto, just steps from the ferry.  The hotel is bohemian chic, with spacious rooms and a fabulous restaurant. A true home away from home! 

 

 

Ferry lines: Toremar or Maregiglio
Tickets and timetables:

TOREMAR: www.toremar.it
MAREGIGLIO: www.maregiglio.it